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In
Search of the Perfect
Sailing Sit-On-Top Kayak
By Robert O. Hess
Part II
- SOT SAILING KAYAKS TODAY
Part
Iooo Part
IIoooPart
III
Modern
sailing kayaks are in many ways hybrids, integrating design features
of Polynesian outrigger sailing canoes and/or British sailing canoes
in various combinations. see
PART I - THE ORIGINS OF KAYAK SAILING.
The varied range of products available to kayak sailors today reflects
this. Choices range from basic inverted triangle sails that can
be combined with any standard SOT - "sit-on-top kayak"
or SINK - "sit-inside kayak" to specialized SOTs
or SINKS equipped with outriggers, leeboards, sailing rudders, and
fully-battened high-aspect ratio sails.
As
an aspiring SOT kayak sailor you have essentially two choices: #1
You can buy boat and sail separately, or #2
you can buy a fully-rigged sailing kayak. Both choices have advantages
and disadvantages.
The
basic advantage of choice #1 is that
it allows you to customize your own sailing kayak: you choose a
boat that you feel comfortable with and trust (which will most likely
be the boat you already own - it was in my case), and you then select
a sail rig that best suits your needs. This is not quite as straightforward
as it sounds, though. The boat you are most comfortable with may
not be compatible with the sail rig that is most suitable for you.
Which
brings us to the basic advantage of choice #2.
If you buy a fully rigged sailing kayak all from a single source,
you will avoid potential compatibility problems. But compatibility
too comes at a price, as you may not end up with the exact boat
you had in mind, or the most appropriate sail rig for that matter.
To
complicate matters further, you have a choice within each category
between high-performance sail rigs and low-performance sail rigs.
Which type of rig is right for you depends on your needs and expectations.
If you want to enjoy the thrill flying across the water at break-neck
speed on all Points
of Sail (including
beating upwind!); or if you plan to make long open water crossings,
a high-performance sail may be the way to go. I say "may be"
because performance, like compatibility, has its price: While offering
speed and excitement, this type of rig is also significantly heavier,
complex - both in terms of installation and handling - and, yes,
expensive. For those who intend to use a sail mostly to conserve
energy and extend their paddling range, a low-performance rig may
therefore be a wiser choice. While not fast by any stretch of the
imagination, this type of rig is ultra-light, simple to install
and use, and much more affordable.
To
help you focus your efforts, the ensuing discussion of various SOT
sailing kayaks available on the market today will follow this basic
framework. That way, you should be able to home in directly on the
choices that most appeal to you.
Before
you read on, here are a few caveats: The information on kayak sailing
presented here is far from exhaustive. As this article is published
on a sit-on-top kayaking site, I have focused on SOT kayaks and
kayak sails that are made or at least suitable for sit-on-top kayaks
(SOTs). I have also limited myself to those kayak sail rigs that
struck me as the most plausible options (e.g., beach umbrellas are
not included, even though I keep reading of people using them as
makeshift sails - seriously!). If anyone feels that I have left
out an important kayak sail rig option, or have any corrections
to inaccurate, misleading or wrong information you may come across
here - let us know in TopKayaker.net's
Sailing Forum that we may keep this article up-to-date.
Finally,
I am not an expert on kayak sailing. In fact, I am fairly new at
it. I have personal experience only with my own boat and sail rig
(Ocean Kayak
Scupper Pro with Pacific Action sail), and can't offer first
hand reviews on other boats or sail rigs discussed in this article.
To the extent that I do express opinions on other boats or sail
rigs, these are based on information provided by the manufacturer
(including photographs and videos), Internet and e-mail discussions
with other kayak sailors, as well as data generally available on
the Internet.
This
article will focus on stand-alone, low-performance sail rigs only,
as these are most readily available, easiest to install and also
least expensive. Especially for beginning kayak sailors, one of
these rigs would likely be the best choice. My next article will
then take a look at fully-rigged sailing SOTs as well as high-performance
stand-alone sail rigs.
1.
Pacific Action Sails
Based
in New Zealand, Pacific Action makes a lightweight (about 2 pounds),
hands-free, extremely versatile inverted-V sail - reminiscent of
the crab claw sails used by the ancient Polynesians - that has become
the top choice among expedition kayakers and long-distance racers
such as the Watertribe.
A
good part of what makes the PA sail so attractive is its simplicity
and user-friendliness. It consists of twin composite, two-piece
masts joined at the bottom of the V to a two-piece, flexible plastic
mast foot, which is strapped to the bow of the kayak using a simple
buckle system. The plastic buckles are attached to the deck or sides
of the kayak with two stainless steels screws. The sail is made
of simple lightweight ripstop nylon. There are no battens, grommets,
reef points, stays, shrouds, halyards or anything of that sort to
worry about. A bungee loop hooked into the bow handle pulls the
mast forward and upright, while the sheets of the sail run through
stainless steel carabiners clipped to four pad eyes on the gunwales
of the cockpit within easy reach of the paddler. To get a better
idea of how the PA sail is installed, I recommend that you take
a look at the first video clip on this page: Pacific
Action Sail Video.
Once
the rig is installed, a process that takes no more than about 5
minutes, you are ready to go. While the sail can be installed on
the water (I have managed to do it in 20 knots of wind once), it
is much easier and safer to do so on land. There is really no good
reason to install the sail on the water, since the installed sail
does not interfere with paddling in the lowered position. That is
in part what makes the PA sail so attractive.
To
raise the sail, you simply turn the kayak downwind and release a
small bungee loop that holds the sail level with the deck of the
kayak while not in use. Pop! The bow bungee pulls the sail upright
and, voila, you are sailing. To trim the sail, you pull or release
the sheets using a small clam cleat that is integrated into the
continuous sheeting system. When you are done sailing or the wind
becomes too strong, simply pull on one of the sheets until you can
grab the top of either mast and pull it down onto the deck of the
kayak, grab the other mast, wrap the small sail around both masts,
and secure the sail to the deck of the kayak with a small bungee
tie down. Lowering the sail literally takes seconds, a great safety
feature in a narrow-beamed craft like a kayak. The rolled up sail
can also be stowed below deck if necessary (e.g., to transport the
wet sail without having to put it into your car), provided you have
a large enough hatch opening.
Here
are some other things I really like about the sail:
-
The PA sail is totally hands-free and allows me to paddle without
obstruction on most points of sail (Caveat: Make sure you install
the pad eyes for the sheets far enough forward. Otherwise you
may hit the sheets while paddling.). This is key because I am
first and foremost a kayaker and, well, I like to paddle. On a
beam reach, when the sail is tilted at an angle towards the stern
the kayak, I use a very low angle paddle stroke to avoid hitting
the lower mast. The modified stroke is not a problem, however,
because only light - or, if the wind blows hard enough, no - paddling
is required while under sail. With the assistance of the sail,
I can now paddle distances that were completely out of reach before.
Especially in combination with a not-so-fast polyethylene SOT
like my Scupper Pro, the sail is a huge help. In my case, the
PA sail has easily doubled my range of travel. I am currently
planning a 20+ mile open water solo-crossing to Catalina Island.
-
The PA sail works in a broad range of conditions, in winds from
5 mph all the way to 20+ mph. It can be sailed dead downwind,
but it can also be sailed on a reach up to a beam reach! (90 degrees
to the wind). When reaching in low winds (5-10 mph), you will
need to paddle lightly to maintain speed. When reaching in high
wind (15+ mph), you won't have to paddle, but will greatly benefit
from a rudder. For the first few months, I managed without a rudder,
and it worked, but after awhile I got tired of continuously sweep
stroking on the leeward side to counteract the tendency of the
boat to fall off the wind (leehelm). In other words, if you plan
on sailing the PA sail on a reach, you should plan for a rudder.
Not all SOTs allow installation of a rudder. So make sure that
the boat of your choice has at least a rudder option.
-
The PA sail has flexible rigging allowing the sail to depower
itself in strong winds or gusts. This makes for very stable -
and thus safe - paddle-sailing. I have not managed to capsize
yet, and don't feel any more at risk of capsizing with the sail
than without it. The heeling effect of the sail is surprisingly
low, requiring only a slight lean to windward even with the larger
1.5m sail. Moreover, added speed means added stability. On a beam
reach, the sail pulls the boat forward, lifting the bow over the
swells and maintaining forward momentum. Even with a 12-15 knot
breeze and 3-4-foot swells directly on the beam I feel quite secure,
often sailing several miles offshore. In very low winds, I sometimes
sail while lying down facing aft with my feet propped up on the
rear hatch of my Scupper Pro Ocean Kayak. It's a great way to
take a break without stopping (conditions permitting).
The
Pacific Action sail is available in three sizes, 1.0m, 1.5m and
2.2 m. Personally, I am partial to the 1.5m sail, as it works both
in low wind and high wind conditions. The power range of the 1.0m
sail works is more limited, and it works best in winds of 15+ mph.
The 2.2 m sail is quite large and intended mostly for tandems and/or
low wind conditions. Depending on your boat, the conditions you
normally sail in, and your skill level (which will increase quickly!),
the 1.0m or 1.5m sail is therefore your best option. PA
sails retail for around $300 and are available at many kayak shops.
If you are having trouble finding one, you can also order the sail
on the Internet.
For
more detailed information on the performance of the PA sail, including
some "home-grown" modifications with photos, please refer
to my article Pacific
Action Sails Revisited. Also be sure to check out the
videos posted on the Pacific
Action website. They are quite instructive.
2.
Spirit Sails
Another
popular inverted-V sail, the Canadian-made Spirit sail takes simplicity
one step further. This sail has no lines whatsoever. It is completely
freestanding, attached to the bow of the kayak on a locking base.
The locking base is attached to a deck plate, which, on most SOTs,
must be installed with 4 ¼" screws. While a strap-on
version is available, the system also utilizes suction cups, which
work only on polished, smooth surfaces. Since most polyethylene
SOT decks are not perfectly smooth (not that are they meant to be),
the strap-on version probably won't be an option for you.
Like
the PA sail, the Spirit sail is ultra-light (only 1/1/2 lbs.) and
offers hands-free sailing and completely unobstructed paddling.
Without any rigging and flexible masts, the sail is designed to
spill and minimize the heeling effect of wind gusts, ensuring a
safe ride. The sail is available in two sizes, 17 ft2 (1.5 m2) and
8.5 ft2 (0.75 m2). As for the PA sail, the larger size is probably
a better choice for most paddlers (see above).
Unlike
the PA sail, however, the Spirit sail is almost exclusively a downwind
sail. Based upon testimonials I have read on the Internet, the Spirit
sail appears to be just as efficient and fast running before the
wind as the PA sail. In winds around 15 mph, you can expect to sail
at paddling speed or better doing absolutely nothing except smiling
from a ear to ear and asking yourself why you haven't thought of
this sooner. The sail can also be rotated in 30º increments
to port or starboard, allowing you to sail 30º off the wind
to either side. But unlike the PA sail, the Spirit sail does not
allow a beam reach (90º) or even a broad reach (45º).
This is not necessarily a bad thing, though. It all depends on what
you would like to do with your kayak sail. If you'll be sailing
downwind most or all of the time - perhaps because you are uncomfortable
sailing across the wind and having to lean a bit to counter the
heeling moment of the sail (as is the case for the PA sail), the
Spirit sail may be an excellent choice.
Another
important difference to the PA sail is the way the Spirit sail is
raised and lowered. To raise the sail, the sail must be assembled
and installed from scratch each time (as opposed to the PA sail,
which can be assembled and installed without being raised). Lest
I mischaracterize the procedure, here are the instructions from
the manufacturer:
"Remove
sail from its sack and unroll. Keep sail folded in half along length.
Hold battens in pairs, side-by-side. Join all sections [error omitted]
while sail is still folded. Keep sail out of water. Ensure V-support
is in position. Align boat with nose downwind. Install first batten
on post with sail folded in half. Install second batten base on
other post, then open sail. Wind will fill sail. Ensure battens
and fabric are pulled fully downward. You are now sailing."
Not
having had a chance to try the Spirit sail, it's hard for me to
say how long this process would take. Probably no more than a couple
of minutes. But when you are sitting on the water in windy conditions
without a paddle in your hands, that can seem like a long time.
First, you'll have to retrieve the 27" sail bag from the hatch
of your kayak (unless you can tie it somewhere on deck). Then you
will have to take out the different sections and put the bag away
(otherwise it'll blow away in the wind). Next you'll have to slide
out of your seat towards the bow where the locking plate is installed,
assemble the mast sections and insert them into the V support, while
at the same time making sure that the sail doesn't open up prematurely
and/or fill with water. Note that not all parts float - if you drop
the V-support (the part that connects the two masts to the locking
base) in the water, it will sink. Last, you will have to scoot back
to your seat, retrieve your paddle, all while still holding the
folded sail, and finally let the sail snap upright and open. In
all but the most benign conditions, I suspect that raising the sail
on the water poses a bit of a challenge, especially for a beginner.
It certainly cannot be raised without fail in 5 seconds in any conditions
like the PA sail.
I won't
go into the process of lowering the Spirit sail. It is basically
the reverse of raising the sail and poses much the same challenge.
Click here for manufacturer's
instructions.
All
in all, the Spirit sail is a good choice for someone who a) prefers
a downwind only sail, b) has a strong dislike for lines of any kind
on a kayak (they could conceivably pose a risk of entanglement),
and c) would raise/lower the sail either on shore or in relatively
calm conditions on the water. The Spirit sail, at least the smaller
one, is also somewhat lower-priced than the PA sail, at U.S.$225.
For a list of dealers, reviews, testimonials, see the Spirit
Sails website.
3.
EasyRider Sails
EasyRider
Kayaks offers two different low-performance sails: a downwind
spinnaker and a reaching
spinnaker. As the names suggest, the first is intended for sailing
downwind only, whereas the second is intended for reaching (sailing
across the wind) only. Unlike the Pacific Action and Spirits sails,
EasyRider spinnakers use a modern sail plan (known among sailors
as a Marconi or Bermuda rig) with the widest part of the triangle
at the bottom rather than at the top.
Both
sails attach to a two-piece flexible mast with a length of 68 in.
The mast is stepped into a base bolted to the deck, and locks into
place with a twist. The whole package weighs less than 2 lbs. and
can easily be stowed below deck as a 36-in. package. The two sheets
of the downwind spinnaker clip into pad eyes on deck in front of
the paddler. The single sheet of the reaching spinnaker runs aft
through an eye attached to a strap of the rear hatch and then doubles
back to a cleat next to the cockpit. The sails are raised and lowered
by a halyard.
Curiously,
the size of the downwind spinnaker is listed as 6 ft.² and
the size of the reaching spinnaker is listed as 8 ft.² in EasyRider's
catalog as well as on its website. These are almost certainly not
the correct sizes. Especially the reaching spinnaker is probably
about twice the size listed (which is, in my mind, a good thing).
When I raised the issue with Peter Kaupat, the owner of EasyRider
Kayaks, he agreed that the sails were likely significantly larger,
but was not sure what the correct sizes were. Not a big deal, but
something to keep in mind in case you are seriously interested in
either sail.
The
combination of the two sails is a powerful one, allowing you to
sail both downwind and across the wind. Though I have not had a
chance to try the reaching spinnaker (or the downwind spinnaker,
for that matter), the reaching spinnaker, due to its modern sail
design, should offer better reaching performance than the Pacific
Action sail. Because of the flexible, tapered mast, the sail rigs
readily spill gusts, which makes for a safe ride even in high wind
conditions. On the other hand, you have to switch sails on the water
to sail both downwind and across the wind on the same trip. With
the relatively small size and light weight of the sails, this should
not present a problem, however.
Both
the downwind spinnaker and reaching spinnaker allow for hands-free
sailing. In case of the reaching spinnaker, paddling is however
somewhat restricted, depending on the position of the sail. Because
the sheet of the sail is attached behind the cockpit, the clew of
the sail (the point where the sheet is attached to the sail) is
fairly close to the paddler on a reach. EasyRider maintains that
a low-angle paddle stroke below the sail is possible. Since I have
not had a chance to test the EasyRider reaching spinnaker, I simply
don't know how restrictive the sail actually is on various points
of sail. However, I suggest that you pay particular attention to
this issue, should you be seriously interested in the reaching spinnaker.
Even if the sail interferes with a double-bladed paddle stroke,
a single-bladed canoe paddle should work fine.
All
in all, EasyRider's downwind/reaching spinnaker combination strikes
me as an excellent choice. It offers good performance on all points
of sail, it is simple and user-friendly, and it is also quite safe.
The main drawback, especially compared to the Pacific Action sail,
is that you have to purchase, carry, and switch between two sails.
Aside from the hefty price tag -- about $600.00 for both sails --
this means you won't be able to switch between running downwind
and sailing across the wind at a moment's notice. Whether this presents
a problem will depend on your particular sailing habits and preferences,
and also on the kinds of conditions you will typically sail in (e.g.,
if the wind shifts a lot where you sail, you may be better off with
a single sail that can be trimmed by simply pulling or releasing
the main sheet rather than two separate sails).
4.
Choosing the Right SOT for Sailing
Finally,
a few words about the right kind SOT for sailing are in order. Just
as not all SOT are good for specialized disciplines like surfing,
racing or fishing, not all SOTs are suitable for sailing. Here are
the main features you should be looking for in an SOT that would
be used in combination with one of the above sail rigs:
1.
Length: The boat should be at least 12 ft. in length.
Ideally, you would choose a boat that is 14 ft. or longer. Generally,
the longer the waterline of a boat, the better it will track,
i.e., sail forward in a straight line rather than drifting sideways.
2.
Width:
The boat should be at least 24 in. in width. Ideally, you would
choose a boat that is 26 in. or wider (but no more than 30 in.:
anything wider will needlessly slow you down). Generally, the
wider the boat, the less tendency the boat will have to capsize
due to the heeling moment of the sail. More width (the proper
nautical term is "beam") is important especially if
you plan on sailing across the wind.
3.
Rocker: The boat should not have too much rocker. Rocker
refers to the degree of a kayak's hull curvature from bow to stern.
Generally, more rocker means greater maneuverability, but also
reduced tracking. Most SOTs will be just fine in this respect,
with the notable exception of surf kayaks, which have extreme
rocker for maximum maneuverability.
4.
Keel Strip: The boat should have some sort of keel
strip to provide greater directional stability. Keel strips come
in different forms. Sometimes, it is some sort of ridge running
along the centerline of the bottom of the hull (the Ocean Kayak
tri-form hull is one example). Other times, it is simply a long
groove or grooves running along the bottom of the hull, sometimes
referred to as reverse keels as in Wilderness System
sit-on-top kayak models.
5.
Rudder: The boat should have at least a rudder option.
Though you may not want or need a rudder at the beginning, chances
are that as your sailing skills improve and you start sailing
across the wind, you'll wish you had a rudder.
6.
Cockpit design: The boat should have a comfortable,
supportive cockpit. This is critical for controlling the boat
under sail. A supportive high back seat is key. But a low center
of gravity (with the seat being ideally below the waterline),
and proper side support for your hips the legs are also important.
You should essentially feel "one" with the boat.
7.
Mounting space: The boat should have sufficient space
on the foredeck (or, in case of the EasyRider spinnaker(s), the
forward part of the cockpit) to mount the sail rig of your choice.
The exact amount and location of mounting space will depend on
the particular rig.
8.
Other features: Depending on your personal preferences
and needs, you may want to buy a boat that has sufficient hatch
space to stow the sail rig below deck. You may also want to opt
for a boat that is easy for you to remount after a capsize.
The
following are some examples of good sailing SOTs:
1.
Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro: Though discontinued, this is still my number
1 choice for a SOT sailing kayak. The French company RTM makes a
replica of the old Scupper Pro, known as the "RTM Tempo".
The only problem: no rudder option. So, you may be better off looking
for a used Scupper Pro.

2.
Wilderness Systems Tarpon 140 or 160: though not my personal favorites,
these two boats are the top choices of many other kayak sailors.
They may be a better choice than the Scupper Pro especially for
paddlers with a larger frame.

3.
Ocean Kayak Prowler 15: This is another boat that has received accolades
from a number of experienced kayak sailors. Also a boat designed
for larger paddlers.

4.
Hobie Adventure: This is an excellent choice in every respect. However,
as I will discuss in the next part of this article, Hobie makes
a sail rig specifically designed for the Hobie Adventure. So while
the Adventure can and has been successfully used in combination
with some of the above sail rigs, chances are that if you purchase
or already own an Adventure, you'll opt for the more performance-oriented
Hobie sail rig (which will be discussed in the next part of this
article).

Note:
There are certainly other SOTs that also should do very nicely for
sailing purposes. However, as I neither have any personal experience
with those boats nor know of anyone else who uses them for sailing,
I don't think it would be a good idea for me to recommend them at
this point. If anyone would like me to add their particular SOT
sailing kayak to the above list, I will gladly do so.
Robert
is a regular contributor to Topkayaker.net's Forum.
He also welcome's
your questions or comments: Robert
O. Hess.
1. Sail Rig Manufacturers discussed in this article:
2.
Do-It-Yourself Sail Rigs
Other
Reviews
We
also recommend:
- Our
Kayak Sailing Section - Index to all Kayak Sailing Articles
on our site.
- Topkayaker
Kayak Sailing Forum This is a great place for asking specific
questions about SOT sailing, or for just browsing old posts about
SOT sailing. The search function will help you narrow your search.
- Watertribe:
A racing-oriented site, including discussion forum, offering lots
of experience especially with the Pacific Action sail.
- Kayakfishingstuff
kayak sailing forum:This is another good place for asking specific
questions about SOT sailing, especially (but not only) if you
are also a fisherman.
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