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 Photo: Cam Holtey on Raaapido-Courtesy JOI |
Basic Surfing Techniques Contributed
by the British Canoe Union Surf Committee. This is a beautifully done manual on surfing manoeuvres in eight parts: |
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Introduction |
Surfers have been taking to the waves in a variety of craft for centuries. The beginnings of board surfing is commonly known to have started in Hawaii. The beginnings of kayak surfing are shrouded in mystery.
Whilst Indians and Eskimos are typically sited as the forbears of canoeing and kayaking, it was the Polynesians that were first recorded to be surfing their war canoes in Captain Cook’s log.
Kayak Surfing as we now know it started to take shape with the advent of fiberglass canoes in the late 60's and has continued to progress alongside improvements in design and manufacture.
When out in the surf, a surfer will be looking to perform the most radical and functional ride in the most critical section of the wave.
The ride can be broken down into three sections; getting started or the take-off, the finish - end manoeuvre, and the bit in between - the ride. Other important aspects of surfing are the paddle out and the inevitable wipe-outs. Lets now take a look at these in turn.
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Wipe
Outs
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At
Tom's TopKayaker Shop:
When everything goes horribly wrong and you lose control of your craft you will wipe out. Depending on the size and nature of the wave this can be very spectacular, even painful, and may well involve lots of unintentional capsizes and cartwheels. If you don't bail out of your boat, you'll find your self being pushed sideways and bounced in towards the beach. This motion is known as the bongo slide, and mastering this skill is the first step towards feeling truly comfortable in the surf.
To practise the bongo slide, paddle out to where there are broken waves coming in at regular intervals and turn your craft so that it is sideways-on to the waves. As the water hits you, edge your craft into the wave and apply a low brace. The wave will push you sideways and bounce you towards the beach in the classic bongo slide position. If you lean forwards and apply the low brace in front of your hips the craft will tend to track in the direction in which the stern is pointing. If you lean back and apply the brace behind your hips the craft will track in the direction in which the bow is pointing. So by varying your body position you can control the angle of the craft as it slides ashore. Remember, as with all paddling techniques to practise on both sides. Once you feel confident at handling your craft in the broken water you can go out beyond the break line to the green waves.
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The
Paddle Out
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Paddling out through the surf can be quite intimidating for the beginner. Many get out beyond the break line and are then reluctant to paddle back in again! With a little patience and skill the art of getting out will come very quickly. The most important thing to avoid is being hit in the upper body by the full force of a broken wave.
Paddle into oncoming waves at a slight angle rather than at right angles. As the wave approaches the bow lean back and down wave slightly, keeping the paddle high to avoid being hit in the face by the shaft and pull the craft through the wave. As you approach the break line pace yourself so that you can either hold back and let the wave break or put on a quick sprint to get over the top of it. Once you get beyond the break paddle a little further out to get your breath back and to avoid being caught by any large sets which might come through.
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The
Take Off
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Swells race towards the coast at incredible speeds, slowing down and increasing in size as they approach shallow water. Finally, when a swell passes over the ocean floor at a depth approximately 1.5 times its own height it will begin to break, expending much of its potential energy in the process. It is just before this point that the surfer, using self propulsion, can acquire the wave, or take-off. The take-off is therefore the entry point to a wave.
Straight Take Off
The easiest of the take-offs to perform.
The paddler aligns them self at right angles to the approaching wave.
As the wave comes up behind them they sprint forward to gain sufficient
momentum to slide down the face of the wave. The steeper the wave at the
moment of take of the easier the take-off is to perform.
Once on the wave the surfer now starts to perform the manoeuvres that will constitute the ride.
If the paddler continues to run at right angles to the wave, the paddler will get a short ride as the wave will now break, and force the paddler to perform an end manoeuvre.
Angled Take-Off
Similar to the straight take-off, only
this time the surfer is not at right angles to the approaching wave, but
is instead angled to run down the face of the wave away from the shoulder.
This take off allows the surfer to move straight into a diagonal run.
Faded Take-Off
The last variation of the straight
take-off is the faded take-off. This time the surfer angles the take-off,
so as to move into the critical part of the wave. Enabling the surfer
to correct poor initial positioning on the wave for the take off and to
gain the power pocket. Once into the power pocket the surfer will need
to perform a manoeuvre to turn away from the approaching shoulder.
Paddle Out Take-Off
The paddle out take-off allows the surfer
to catch a wave at the most critical moment possible while paddling towards
the break. This manoeuvre requires that the surfer is able to propel their
craft at a reasonable speed whilst paddling out and as such is only performed
by wave skis and kayaks.
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The
Ride
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The technique of riding an unbroken wave by travelling along its length
as well as running shore wards is fundamental to surfing in any craft.
It is called a diagonal run.
Diagonal Run
Get the kayak surfing and then turn
away from the break and tilt the craft with your hips into the wave to
allow the edge (or rail), to grip the water. Twist the upper body towards
the beach and apply a low-brace rudder on the down-wave (beach) side,
prising the stern into the wave to keep the nose down and pointing along
the wave. With any luck you will be positioned on the wave in the power
pocket with the broken wall of water (the shoulder) chasing behind you.
Once performing a diagonal run, you can alter the angle of the kayak to face down wave by leaning down the wave and asserting pressure on the low-brace rudder. To alter the angle of the kayak to face up wave lean the kayak up wave and release pressure from the low-brace rudder.
This technique forms the basics for all surfing manoeuvres. To achieve the more complex manoeuvres the low brace rudder may be applied on the up wave side and the kayak may need to be leaned to some quite impossible angles.
Trimming
As mentioned above the diagonal run
is the basic surfing position from which all manoeuvres can be performed.
From this position the surfer planing along unbroken sections of a wave
can trim the kayak to maintain or increase speed, which is essential in
all manoeuvres. This results in the diagonal run, not being quite a dead
straight one.
Bottom Turn
Upon reaching the base of a wave the
bottom turn produces the direction change and acceleration necessary to
climb to the wave's crest. This manoeuvre will be performed immediately
after a straight take-off, enabling the surfer to climb back up the wave
into a position to perform a diagonal run. It can also be used to negotiate
a fast or breaking section, allowing the surfer to surf down and around
the white water and regain the shoulder beyond.
Top Turn
The top turn is used to change direction
after climbing to the uppermost section of a wave. When at the top of
the wave the surfer is in danger of stalling and sliding off the back
of the wave. To avoid this the surfer needs to lean forward to ensure
that the kayak completes the manoeuvre. The top turn can also be used
as a stall technique for regaining the power pocket.
Climbing and Dropping
Climbing and dropping is the sequence
of combining top and bottom turns. With each sequence the surfer increases
speed to facilitate further manoeuvres.
The Cut Back
The cut back allows the surfer to change
the direction of the diagonal run through 180 degrees. This is done by
turning the kayak down the wave and continuing the turn until the kayak
is facing the direction from where it came.
The cut back is usually performed upon reaching a slower section of a wave whereby the surfer changes his direction 180 degrees back towards the pursuing white water thereby regaining the pocket.
Roundhouse Cut Back
In the description above the cut back
was performed by the surfer travelling away from the shoulder. It can
also be performed when planing towards the shoulder, so as to return to
the position of the diagonal run.
When two cut back turns are performed in succession, the first towards the shoulder and the second away from the shoulder, this manoeuvre is known as a roundhouse cut back.
Tail Slash
This modification of the top turn is
performed as the surfer travels steeply up the face of the wave, where
upon the surfer performs a flamboyant turn through almost 180o where the
tail of the kayak will slash across the top of the wave.
Lip Turn
This top turn is performed right on
the lip (crest) of the wave, using the power of wave to turn the kayak.
Bouncer
When running towards the shoulder, following
a cut back or faded take off, the surfer can continue the run right into
the broken section of the wave, using the force of the white water to
turn the kayak and bounce back into the power pocket.
Side Slide
Whilst planing a fast section of an
unbroken wave the surfer can perform either a bottom or top turn and then
releasing the forward rail causing the kayak to slide sideways in the
original direction of the run. The side slide can be used as a means of
stalling, thus allowing the shoulder to catch up.
The side slide can also be used as a
means of dropping to the bottom of a wave. The boat control and technique
required for a side slide is similar to that required by a floater.
Floaters (Roller-Coasters)
On occasions when racing along a wall,
a section of white water will break in front of you. This necessitates
turning in a long arc around the base of the white water (a big bottom
top), or alternatively, climbing up and floating over the top of the foam
before roller-coasting back down on to the unbroken water.
Re-Entry
Having ascended to the crest of a breaking
wave it is possible to re-enter, turning back toward the base of the wave,
using the crumbling/pitching lip as a power source to aid redirection:
yet another functional method of keeping near the power pocket.
The re-entry can be used as a close-out manoeuvre when performed an approaching shoulder. Enabling the surfer to travel to the base of the wave away from the crashing white water as the last portion of the wave breaks.
Aerial
In the right conditions it is possible
to extend a re-entry to the point of leaving contact with the wave crest,
allowing the surfer to turn in mid-air.
Like the re-entry the aerial can also be used as a close-out manoeuvre by the surfer using the power of the approaching shoulder to aid redirection to the base of the wave.
360°
In a kayak the 360° is performed as
a flat spin. It is initiated by forcing the tail of the kayak to slide
down the wave and around so as to cause the kayak to be planing backwards.
Once this point is achieved the paddler then repeats the process, by forcing
the nose of the kayak to slide down the wave and around, returning the
kayak to a forward planing direction.
This manoeuvre may be deemed dangerous
both for the kayaker and other water users, but it can be a flamboyant
functional manoeuvre. A typical application of the 360° is as a stalling
manoeuvre performed on the face of the wave whilst waiting for the shoulder,
as an alternative to the cutback .
Other applications of the 360° are as part of a top turn, part of floater or as a regain 360°.
Reverse 360°
The 360° is initiated by sliding the
tail of the kayak down the wave. With the reverse 360° the turn is initiated
with the nose of the kayak turning down the wave. An all together harder
manoeuvre.
Tube Riding
There are occasions, when riding steep-walled
waves where the rider is confronted with a section that is impossible
to negotiate, other than to trim underneath the throwing lip, and ride
the very inside of the wave. Tube riding is sometimes referred to as getting
covered.
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End
Manoeuvre
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When the wave finally closes out and
there is no more unbroken wave to plane along the surfer needs to finish
the ride by performing an end manoeuvre. At times it may even be necessary
to finish the ride prematurely, due to the particular circumstances at
the time (obstacles such as rocks, piers or other water users).
The simplest way to pull off a wave, is to turn up wave and climb up and over the back before the whole thing collapses and becomes a heaving mass of soup.
On occasion it is not possible to exit over the top of the wave, forcing the rider to either straighten out and ride the white water, or punch through the wave - the punch out.
The alternative to pulling off the back of the wave is to straighten up and use the white water to perform an end manoeuvre unique to kayaks. The easiest of these manoeuvres are the loop and pop-out.
Loop and Pop-Out
By continuing to lean forwards as the
breaking wave lifts the back of the boat, the nose will dig in. As the
wave continues forwards the tail will rise and as the wave passes the
now vertical kayak the volume in the bow that is displaced under water
will cause the kayak to shoot upwards. It is possible for the nose of
the kayak to clear the water, when this happens it is called a sky rocket.
If the tail of the boat travels over
the nose of the boat in the vertical plane, causing the paddler to land
in a capsized position, then a loop has been performed. If however, the
tail doesn't pass vertically over the nose of the kayak, but instead returns
to its original position a pop-out has been performed.
It is possible through body positioning to control these end manoeuvres. By leaning the body forwards you are more likely to perform a loop. If you lean back whilst vertical you are more likely to perform a pop-out. By the use of body rotation, when vertical, the kayak can be spun on its vertical axis, thus enabling the performance of dry loops and pirouettes.
Pirouette
Having forced the kayak into a vertical
position, the kayak can be spun on its vertical axis. A 180° degree spin
as part of a loop is termed a dry loop. A 360° degree spin or even a 720°
degree spin is known as a pirouette.
Cart Wheel
The cart wheel is performed as a means
of a forward and then reverse loop on the same wave. The trick with the
cart wheel is to land the kayak after the first forward dry loop in front
of the wave in a position where a reverse loop can then be performed.
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Conclusion
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At
Tom's TopKayaker Shop:
The
industry standard for kayak assembly, most commonly used for
backrest and knee strap attachments, leash, shock cord, deck
lines.Near perfect conditions are necessary for the efficient and repeated performance of many of these techniques but all are possible at some time. Neither is this a definitive list of all possible surfing manoeuvres. In the fullness of time as the sport progresses, new manoeuvres will be invented.
All require maximum concentration and exploitation of the wave's power pocket together with sufficient nerve, power and skill from the surfer.
It goes without saying that the ability to roll 100%, with speed and confidence is paramount. Allied with the necessary physical conditioning to withstand the punishment of repeated fights out beyond the break of heavy rollers. Multiple applications are often possible on the right waves but nothing should detract from the basic skill of just staying on, exploiting and riding the wave as close to the shoulder and for as long as possible.
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Surfer's
Ettiquette or "Road Rules"
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Surfer A is nearer the shoulder and has right of way. B must give way
to A. If B does catch the wave he/she is "dropping-in" on surfer A.
Surfer A has right of way. B must give way to A who has already caught
the wave.
Surfer B is not entitled to catch the wave that is already caught and
being ridden by surfer A.
Surfer A, having already caught the wave, has right of way over surfer
B.
Surfer B’s progress toward the unbroken wall has halted. Surfer A is then
entitled to take-off.
Surfer A, riding in or in front of the white water toward the unbroken
shoulder has right of way. Surfer B must not take-off.
Surfer B, attempting to take-off in a broken section of a wave, has no
entitlement to the shoulder occupied by surfer A.
Surfer A wipes out. Surfer B may then catch the wave.
Surfer A has right of way on the right hand shoulder while surfer B has
right of way on the left hand shoulder.
Where there is a clearly rideable left and right shoulder, surfer B is
not entitled to cross under the peak to the shoulder already occupied
by surfer A.
Surfer A may cross under the peak to the unoccupied right-hander shoulder.
In doing so the left hand shoulder will become available for other surfers
to catch.
Both surfers are entitled to take-off and ride the unbroken wave section
but neither has right of way over the other one or both must pull off
the wave before a collision occurs.
Surfer A, riding the wave, must avoid surfer B who is either stationary
or paddling out. This is true except in competitions, when A has priority.
SURF THE FORUMS to get answers to your surf questions.
This Article Courtesy of:
BRITISH CANOE UNION SURF COMMITTEE
